Despite the looming threat of new tariffs on footwear imports to the U.S., the atmosphere was upbeat among retailers and brands during footwear market week in New York City.

At FFANY, the turnout was strong, with buyers from Rack Room Shoes, Nordstrom, Target, Walmart, Kohl’s, Zappos, Von Maur and more all attending the show to meet with brands.

“Retailers were coming in from all over the country, whether it was boutique retailers, specialty retailers, department stores or big chains from different categories,” said Sandi Mines, vice president of corporate engagement at Footwear Distributors and Retailers of America (FDRA) and FFANY. “It was really packed.”

Over at Footwear Show New York Expo (FSNYE) at the Park Lane New York, president Phyllis Rein was upbeat. “The show delivered 70 well-known brands and new inspiring designers, which was an increase of 20 percent this year,” she noted. “The takeaway from the show was ‘shoes aren’t just functional, they’re a powerful tool for self-expression and motivation.'”

Tariff Talk

Overall, Mines described the sentiment across the industry as “cautiously optimistic,” though many companies are mulling how potential new tariffs on foreign imports could impact the footwear industry. Ninety-nine percent of the shoes sold in the United States are imported from primarily China, Vietnam and Indonesia, regions that could be subject to potential tariff changes under President-elect Donald Trump.

The threat of new tariffs on foreign imports could have a major impact on Toms, which does 80 percent of its production in China and 20 percent in Vietnam.

“The tariff talk around China in particular and trading partners at large is top of mind,” said Jared Fix, who joined Toms as chief executive officer in July. “We have world class manufacturing partners who are committed to this brand. So if we need to have an ex-China manufacturing strategy, we can do that.”

Baby shoe brand Robeez, which returned to FFANY in June after several years, manufactures most of its shoes in China. Jennie Leone, the brand’s director of sales, said that tariff changes would likely prompt an increase in retail prices as margins become more slim.

“The buyers I’ve spoken to understand that it’s probably going to be across the board, but unfortunately, the consumer is probably going to end up paying for it at the end of the day,” Leone said about tariffs. “We’re going to do our best to keep our price points where we can. At the end of the day, if you have a good product, that’s what matters.”

Western Chief, the Washington Shoe Company owned outdoor brand, operates all of its manufacturing and production out of China, which makes it vulnerable to potential tariff restrictions in the region. According to creative director Sara Kimball, the brand is actively seeking out potential new partners in Vietnam, the Dominican Republic and Brazil.

“I think we’re really just waiting to see where the tariffs are gonna land before we commit on which country,” Kimball said.

Journee, which has recently expanded from boots and dress into some more casual styles, is also exploring back-up options with several of its factory partners. The brand mainly manufactures in China, but noted that many of its partners have sister factories in different locations.

“I always like sourcing and keeping all my eggs spread out anyway, so I feel like there’ll be some of that,” said Marisa Byrne, brand president of the KNS International-owned Journee. “And it’s a mixture of just being proactive about how we’re comping out.”

Tariffs aside, Byrne noted that Journee is seeing demand for more transitional styles that can be worn on more than one occasion. “Versatility seems to be one of the biggest comments that I’ve heard across all of accounts,” said Byrne. “Where can she get the most value, the most bang for her buck, but also have several instances that she can actually wear that item?”

For brands that manufacture in Europe, tariffs were less of a concern.

“We don’t have the issues that many other contemporary brands do — actually, the bulk of the market,” said Nancy Nicolas, head of sales for Free People Footwear. “Because we don’t produce in China. All of our production is done out of Italy, Spain, Portugal and India.”

Nicolas added that demand from buyers is definitely picking up. “I think in this moment, everybody’s feeling bullish about the future,” said Nicolas said. “I think we’re past that cycle of uncertainty with elections. That’s over and done with.”

The Two Ten Foundation‘s Women in the Footwear Industry (WIFI) community came together for their final event in the 2024 WIFI Virtual Series this week to talk effective delegation and how it can empower teams.

Featuring Julie Barr of Rack Room Shoes, Sandra Colon of Birkenstock USA, Debbie Donohue of Steve Madden, and Amanda Kirchoff of Wolverine Worldwide, the women leaders spoke on importance of trust, empowerment, and letting go.

Effective delegation, for instance, involves assigning responsibilities rather than tasks, aligning those with team members’ skills and interests, and providing support and guidance.

“I definitely think that trust [is important],” explained Colon. “Do you realize that if you’re not really delegating effectively that your team is not feeling like it’s really productive, or that they’re learning and growing, and I think that’s what happens a lot, is that the people on the team, they really they don’t feel valued, and they don’t feel like they’re part of the team.”

The panelists also emphasized the benefits of delegation, such as increased productivity, team fulfillment, and leadership development.

“I start with my team’s development plan, and I think about what fulfills them, what experiences do they need to help grow and shape kind of them to be ready for that next step and match it up with their with their career aspirations,” said Kirchoff. “We have a leadership series here at Wolverine called the Harvard Leadership Essentials. And we have a course on delegation, and it teaches very similar concepts and thoughts, and allowing someone to own something from beginning to end and being there when they need you, it also helps them just build credibility.”

They also shared personal experiences and advice for overcoming delegation challenges.

Barr said her biggest challenge when delegating has been letting go of control.

“When you give it to someone else, they may do it differently than you, the end result is the same, but they do it differently, or do it in a different order, and it feels like you’re losing control of the situation,” she explained. “And that’s one thing that I had to learn. Even though it’s different than the way that I would do it, it’s okay.”

Next up, Two Ten’s Wifi will host a networking and cocktail event in New York during December FFANY.

FFANY’s August event may be lighter than the Footwear Distributors and Retailers of America’s (FDRA) other three seasonal market weeks, but that didn’t stop industry leaders from coming out to shop the latest products for spring 2025.

“It was an active few days for market and it’s always just good to be together,” said Matt Priest, president and chief executive officer of FDRA, which hosts the seasonal FFANY trade show. “I think the mood is always positive. We have a positive industry. So that’s good, but there’s also a ton of uncertainty in the marketplace.”

Priest noted that the upcoming presidential election appeared to be on the minds of many brands and retailers who are weighing how the results could impact tariffs, the supply chain and the economy.

“We’re analyzing what that looks like and playing out different scenarios and helping our members better prepare,” Priest said. “But our industry is very resilient. So it wasn’t necessarily hand wringing. It was more like, ‘How do we prepare? What are the contingency plans? How do we navigate through this uncertainty?'”

Despite the uncertainty, brands were overall excited about the momentum they see heading into the new season.

Chief executive officer of Ground Up International Jack Gindi said that the New York-based footwear company has seen positive trends following a slower start to the back-to-school season.

“The customer is really gravitating toward great value, not necessarily price,” said Gindi, whose company specializes in creating licensed shoes for brands like Disney and Mattel and sells products in stores like Walmart. “They really want to feel like they’re getting their money’s worth, quality at the center of that. So that theme seems to be pretty consistent throughout so far. That said, we’re seeing real enthusiasm, excitement and momentum from our retail partners for our products going into 2025.”

At Anne Klein Shoes, the Steve Madden licensed label tried something different this market week. On Monday, the company hosted a “Sip and See” event at its New York City showroom with the intention of gathering real-time consumer feedback on its new spring/summer 2025 women’s shoe collection.

According to Paula Koumoundouros, creative director of Anne Klein Shoes, approximately 20 women attended Monday night’s event where they were able to explore the brand’s new shoe collection and highlight wins and misses in the line.

“There’s always something to learn,” Koumoundouros told FN before the event kicked off on Monday night. “Not only are we studying designer brands because we want to be aspirational, but we’re studying our customer because she has evolved from where we were a few years ago. We want to evolve with her, and we pride ourselves on being customer centric. So, we thought that this Sip and See was such a great way to engage with our community and build our relationship with them.”

Katy Perry Collections also tried something new this FFANY market week. The company decided to pop-up at The Luxury Collection hotel in midtown to show its spring/summer 2025 collection to buyers in town for the week.

For newly appointed president Allison Bennett, being present during market is all part of the plan to bolster the brand’s wholesale business. “We really have an excellent wholesale distribution, so we want to maintain that business, but there’s big opportunity to grow it even more,” Bennett told FN. “So, we see international as a completely untapped market for us. We just opened up Mexico, and we have someone helping us get into Asia – which would be a really big new market for us. So, we’re really trying to expand globally.”

After an upbeat market week in New York City this past June, many in the footwear industry are looking forward to keeping the positive momentum going into August.

Indeed, while inflation and uneven consumer demand are not yet entirely in the rear view, brands and retailers appeared to display “more optimism” than expected earlier this summer — some even making comparisons of “feeling like 2019 again” as a sense of normalcy in the industry prevails.

Here, organizers of some of the footwear community’s largest trade shows discuss what to expect at their next shows, how to make the most of their events and more.

FFANY

Show dates: Aug. 5-9

Sandi Mines, vice president, corporate engagement, FDRA & FFANY

What to expect at the upcoming show: “There are so many shows happening in and around August that, just by nature, this is a smaller show for us. In terms of the dates, it’s typically busiest on Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday. People might come for a day and a half or two days. We encourage the brands to show up however is best for them. The cocktail party, on Aug. 6 at Bryant Park Grill, helps bring everyone together, and they can network and meet new people. Over the past few years, it has gained great momentum, and there are a lot of retailers at the event, so it brings out a lot of brands. It’s casual, it’s fun and it’s at a pretty cool spot overlooking Bryant Park.”

How to make the most of the event: “Check out the website, FFANY.org. Prepare beforehand, get in touch with your brands or your retailers, depending on who you are. Stay in a hotel that’s convenient to the 50s on the west side, so it’s easy to get in and around that area and to all the showrooms. Set up your own dinners and cocktails and breakfasts for meet and greets. And then come to the cocktail party!”

How retailers are shopping differently: “People use their time very wisely. Retailers are way more efficient than they’ve ever been. They’re not walking around looking at things. That makes it more challenging for new brands hoping to get in front of the big retail groups. And you’ve got to show up. Even if it’s not your time now and you’re thinking, ‘oh, in the future,’ come and see what it looks like and get in touch with us. That’s what we do — we help companies grow.”

What we’re doing to improve the experience: “We really put a lot of effort into our online directory, and it is by far the hottest webpage that we have for the two weeks leading up to any market. We tried to keep it very simple and clear and direct on that page.”

Magic / Project / Coterie

Show dates: Aug. 19-21 (Las Vegas); Sept. 22-24 (New York)

Kelly Helfman, president, Mmgnet Group

What to expect at the upcoming shows: “There are so many exciting things coming up, starting with Las Vegas, where you can expect to see new collections from top trend and young contemporary designers. We always have a robust education lineup covering next season’s trends, tips on operating your business, women’s health and wellness as it relates to fashion, and so much more. At Project, the skate community has been growing on our show floor. This season, we will host Adidas Skateboard, Nike SB, New Balance Numeric and Brooklyn Projects, to name a few. And at Coterie this September, we are happy to share that Beyond Yoga and footwear from SJP by Sara Jessica Parker will be showcasing along with some of our favorites Favorite Daughter and AG Jeans.”

How to make the most of the events: “Whether you are an exhibitor or buyer, a first-time attendee or seasoned pro, I always recommend planning and mapping out your schedule based on your goals. It’s equally important to leave time to walk the aisles to discover something new. We offer several opportunities to meet with like-minded professionals at our networking events throughout the duration of the show. You can find the full schedule of events on our website.”

How retailers are shopping differently: “Buyers have become much more conscious when it comes to purchasing decisions. They are looking to continue to stock their stores with consistent best sellers, but also with new and emerging brands, especially those with a great brand story or sustainable practices. Recently, we have seen more buyer interest in stocking more international brands and offering their customers a mix of different price points based on consumer trends. This gives the retailer a unique assortment that stands out.”

What we’re doing to improve the show experience: “We are always talking to customers and listening to their needs. We take that feedback and from that, make actionable change. This season, we have created tailored niche communities in collaboration with trend curators to enhance the overall merchandising of the show. We have also expanded our matchmaking opportunities, customer experience programs and retail concierge. From the time a brand or buyer arrives at one of our events, we want to ensure everyone has a positive experience.”

Dallas Apparel & Accessories Market

Show dates: Aug. 13-16

Cindy Morris, president and CEO, Dallas Market Center

What to expect at the upcoming show: “August is a big show for us across our 1 million-square-foot fashion marketplace. The Apparel & Accessories Market will include a new location for footwear temps on the 13th floor as we continue to invest in its growth this year and into 2025. The footwear location is immediately adjacent to both temporary exhibits for apparel and accessories, as well as permanent showrooms for footwear, apparel and accessories. The August show also takes place at the same time as WESA’s Western/English Apparel & Equipment show and KidsWorld. We also host AETA, a show for the business of English riding and lifestyle, at the same time.”

How to make the most of the event: “Buyers and exhibitors can invest some time ahead of the show to make the most of the show. For buyers, especially those new to Dallas, that includes studying the website, making appointments, downloading the app and planning their show strategy so their time is well spent. By the way, that also includes leaving time for discovery across multiple floors, given the number of exhibitors and brands we showcase. For exhibitors, that homework includes working with our team on marketing opportunities and lead generation, setting appointments — and for new exhibitors, we have new onboarding tutorials and guides.”

How retailers are shopping differently: “I can’t overstate the fact that as retailers’ merchandise mix has broadened to stand out from the competition, they are seeking an inspiring and efficient marketplace to survey trends and source across multiple categories. That includes women’s and men’s apparel, accessories and footwear, but might also include baby products and even gifts like candles or holiday decor. It’s all available in Dallas.”

What we’re doing to improve the show experience: “Just like a good retail merchant, we are always looking at ways to create a marketplace that drives engagement and orders. We listen intently to our retailers and exhibitors. We study other events and retail experiences. And we try new ideas. That’s why for August we will have a new location for footwear.”

Micam Milano

Show dates: Sept. 15-17

Giovanna Ceolini, president, Assocalzaturifici

What to expect at the upcoming show: “Micam has always been the platform where footwear companies not only present a preview of their collections but — thanks to an international audience of operators — they make business opportunities a reality. We are working on defining the new features of this edition, both on the exhibition side and on the conference side. We will certainly have an even more relevant Micam X area, where the most urgent themes for the sector will be discussed, starting with the future of retail and sustainability.”

How to make the most of the event: “The development of the Trends’ Buyer Guide is proving to be a great success. More than 5,000 copies are downloaded with each edition. It is a free tool that we make available to buyers in collaboration with Livetrend. The buyers thus have in their hand a real shopping guide with the must-haves of the season.”

What we’re doing to improve the show experience: “Through direct contact with companies in the sector, we try to set up an event that is increasingly in line with the needs of professionals in the sector, previewing the collections of more than 1,000 international brands and the best of Made in Italy — and defining a program of events that meets the demands of exhibitors and buyers with the aim of always creating new stimuli and opening up to the future.”

After several years of ups and downs, Toms is on the upswing.

The shoe company, best known for its canvas slip-on, or Alpargata, has made an effort in recent years to diversify its product lineup to include sandals, espadrilles and casual sneakers. According to executives, that decision is paying off.

Toms’ sales for spring 2025 were up double digits compared to the prior year, according to Jim Kennedy, Toms’ VP of sales in the Americas. And in April, the brand was up 45 percent compared to the prior year.

While the Alpargata is perhaps Toms’ most recognizable look, sales of its non Alpargata products now make up between 60 and 70 percent of the brand’s business. Compared to the prior year, Toms’ dress casual category was up over 70 percent. Specifically, sandals were up over 60 percent and fashion espadrilles were up over 120 percent.

In an interview last week during the FFANY footwear market week in New York City, Toms chief executive officer Magnus Wedhammar told FN that the brand is benefiting from a “pendulum swing” back from clunky, oversized silhouettes to more understated, dress casual looks that can be worn at work or in a more casual setting, something Toms has leaned into in recent years.

“It’s a macro trend shift from oversized [footwear],” Wedhammar said, describing the pandemic-era focus on large and clunky silhouettes. As wallets tighten, consumers are looking for versatile products that can be worn in a variety of contexts. “When the pendulum swung, it was a natural swing back to low profile silhouettes.”

“It’s not just one thing,” Kennedy told FN. “We’re hitting on a number of areas, which is exciting.”

The shift towards a more diverse assortment comes after several years of challenges for the brand, which struggled to translate its success with millennial consumers to younger generations like Gen Z. In December 2019, Toms Shoes founder Blake Mycoskie and private equity firm Bain Capital ceded control of Toms to a group of creditors to provide debt relief to the shoe company, which had been dogged by negative credit ratings and bankruptcy rumors. Wedhammar came on board shortly after and, among other action items, helped the brand pivot away from relying too much on the Alpargata.

Toms’ recent success has been buoyed by economic conditions in the U.S. Namely, inflation stricken consumers want their shoes to last for more than one occasion and are increasingly opting for pairs that blend comfort and style.

“We’re stretching things over more seasons,” said Amy Smith, Toms’ chief brand and impact officer. “She wants a high quality new product, but doesn’t always have enough to buy all the things in a regular season. Consumer behavior has really evolved a lot and I think dress casual is a piece of that.”

This shift to dress casual still works well with Toms’ Alpargata, a low profile, easy to wear slip on shoe with no-laces and an understated yet recognizable look. Depending on the colorway and style, this product can be dressed up or down. Toms has rolled out updated versions of the Alpargata, including the Alpargata Plus, which features a slightly wider last and more cushioning in the insole for a more durable version of the brand’s most recognizable product. The Alpargata Mule offers a slip-on version of the same core product.

“The consumer is looking for something that’s versatile, something she can wear on multiple occasions. She can wear it when she goes to work and then when she goes to the bar after. And she wants stylish comfort,” Smith said. “She’s not willing to give up on that either. So that’s really what we’re trying to bring here.”

Wedhammar himself admitted that competition in the dress casual space these days is tight. But he sees the strength of the Toms brand as a compelling selling point for consumers.

“We’re feeling like the consumer is really paying attention and valuing brands, because there’s a sea of these this stuff out there in the marketplace, but we’re outperforming,” he said. “I think the consumer is voting for great design but also brand. It’s the combination of the two.”

The atmosphere was generally upbeat among retailers and brands during the FFANY footwear market week in New York City.

Matt Priest, president and CEO of the Footwear Distributors and Retailers of America (FDRA), which hosts the seasonal FFANY trade show, said that while inflation and uneven consumer demand are not yet entirely in the rear view, brands and retailers appeared to display “more optimism” than expected.

“It feels like 2019 again,” Priest said. “There’s predictability. The consumer is buying. There are still some pockets of weakness, but there are always pockets of weakness. There are some really strategic pockets of strength.”

Baby shoe brand Robeez made its return to FFANY after not attending for several years. According to Jennie Leone, the brand’s director of sales, it was important for Robeez to re-establish its presence in the market.

“We’ve been with a lot of our retailers for many years and when we travel to the accounts, they don’t get to see everything,” Leone said. “We definitely have our footprint in the market. And to not be at FFANY didn’t make sense to me.”

At the Footwear Show New York Expo (FSNYE), president Phyllis Rein noted that her show this week, which featured 80 shoe brands, saw a 20 percent increase in retailer attendance compared with the December 2023 edition.

“Nordstrom, Belk, Macy’s, Bloomingdale’s, Von Maur, Famous Footwear, Anthropologie, TJX and Gwynn’s were a few of the many retailers that shopped at the Park Lane New York,” Rein told FN.

Rein also noted that sustainable footwear was high in demand this season. Retailers were gravitating to products and elements that were “planet friendly.” Trending styles at FSNYE were sneakers and athleisure as “comfort remains king,” she added.

Here, FN talked to brands on the ground at the shows about what’s working, what they are excited about and what to expect next spring.

Toms

Toms chief executive officer Magnus Wedhammar told FN that the brand is benefiting from a “pendulum swing” back from clunky, oversized silhouettes to more understated, dress casual looks.

Overall, Toms’ sales for spring 2025 were up double digits compared to the prior year, said Jim Kennedy, Toms’ VP of sales in the Americas. And the dress casual category, in particular, was up over 70 percent from the prior year. Part of this success is owed to consumers looking to wear their shoes on more occasions.

“We’re stretching things over more seasons,” said Amy Smith, Toms’ chief brand and impact officer. “She wants a high quality new product, but doesn’t always have enough to buy all the things in a regular season. Consumer behavior has really evolved a lot and I think dress casual is a piece of that.”

Western Chief (Washington Shoe Company)

The cowboy boot trend is still driving business for the Western Chief, the Washington Shoe Company owned outdoor brand. According to Sara Kimball, creative director of Western Chief, the brand is leaning into rubber rain boots with a western look for women and kids.

“You can still get the same aesthetic and do Western here and it’s something that’s easy to clean or hose off,” she said.

Hey Dude

“Newness is working,” said Kelly Cortina, Hey Dude’s chief product and merchandising officer. “Consumers are responding to fresh and inspirational drops, especially with the continued macro headwinds in the market that are tightening up spend.”

She added that consumers are also responding well to “timeless classic silhouettes like loafers and boat shoes.” This has meant positive effects for Hey Dude’s Wendy and Wally slip-ons.

“With trends continuing to support stylish comfort in timeless silhouettes, Hey Dude will continue to find fun and inspirational applications to our iconic silhouettes so the consumer will have many options for their outfit choices,” Cortina said. In the fall, Hey Dude will launch the “Wendy and Wally Comf,” a comfort-focused upgrade to these core silhouettes.

Black Suede Studio

Montreal-based Black Suede Studio was back in New York this season showing out of the Langham hotel.

Founder Kris Avakian noted how much the brand as expanded in recent seasons, pointing to a new accessories range including belts and jewelry. “We also recently launched bridal, which is performing well and I’m working on a couple of exciting collaborations that will come up soon,” he noted.

Still, the collection, which is known for polished designs, is sticking with a trend-right assortment of slingbacks, mules and pumps for spring 2025.

Florsheim

Florsheim president Kevin Schiff noted that retailers are “leaning into” drivers lately. “We’ve been getting a lot of orders for our driving shoe offering as of late, and retailers continue to respond to our hybrid dress shoes with the white soles,” he said.

The exec also noted that new this season are shoes with a slip-in technology and a new boat shoe offering as the trend gains traction.

YY Nation

YY Nation founder and managing director Jeremy Bank is very optimistic about his sustainable shoe brand’s growth.

“This year we will most likely be up over 400 percent from last year as more retailers seek out our product innovation,” Bank told FN. “We’re doing a lot of repeat business with small independent stores, surf shops that are looking for planet-friendly footwear and retailers like Paragon Sports here in New York.

New for this season is a sneaker with a upper made of hemp. Banks noted that the shoe will launch in a “major way” with Zumiez this year at a great retail price point of $88.

Amanu

For sustainable sandal brand Amanu, growth is top of mind.. In April, the brand expanded its offering outside of sandals into luxury accessories, for instance.

“As a seasonal brand, you have a lot of ups and downs in the market, and that is something that you have to navigate. But, with the introduction of some new categories [such as handbags], they’re really integrated with very distinct point of view,” explained CEO Catherine Leavitt.  “As a small brand that’s growing, you have to be so intentional. We are not fast fashion. We are not trying to churn and burn product. It’s not about flooding the marketplace with product, it’s thinking about how do we do it in such a thoughtful manner.”

While Amanu is leaning into wholesale (the brand is currently stocked at Net-a-Porter, GOOP, Shopbop, Moda Operandi and additional specialty stores), founder Anita Patrickson added that they are focused on their own channels as well. She said, “We are making sure that we’re navigating our own terms. It’s just really important to be able to control your own narrative.”

With contributions from Nikara Johns.

Overall sentiment was positive amongst shoe retailers and brands during the FFANY footwear market week in New York City earlier this month.

According to Sandi Mines, vice president of corporate engagement at Footwear Distributors and Retailers of America (FDRA) and FFANY, attendees were “pretty optimistic” and felt that inventory issues were under control. “The mood this season was a bit more upbeat and positive than it had been just this time last year,” Mines told FN.

As for who was in town shopping the market, Mines said that DSW, Academy Sports, Famous Footwear, Journeys, Shoe Show, Rack Room, Zappos and Nordstrom were among the majors present this month. “Those are pretty big retailers that can move the needle and have a great impact on business,” she added.

The turnout was great considering February is a smaller market, with June and November editions typically coming in at least 30 percent larger, Mines noted. “There was also a lot of newness from brands this season, which was really exciting to see.”

Here, FN recaps some of the moments, collections, and events we saw during FFANY market week this month.

Rebecca Minkoff Relaunches Shoes

New York-based designer Rebecca Minkoff relaunched her shoe collection in a major way earlier this month. The new fall 2024 collection features 30 styles across 75 SKUs and showcases standout constructions with Rebecca Minkoff’s downtown, rock inspired design elements seen throughout the line.

“Before our sale to Sunrise, we did a very small amount of shoes after Covid hit just to keep the lights on,” Minkoff told FN in an exclusive walkthrough. “So after the sale, it was all about what comes next and developing our big growth areas for the brand. Footwear was the clear choice since handbags and shoes are the two categories that our customer loves. We spent the last year after the transition on getting everything smoothed out. We’re ready to go big now.”

So far, Minkoff has shown the collection to a few major department stores at her New York showroom but plans to make the official wholesale debut at Atlanta Shoe Market next week.

Caleres Presents Latest Innovations

Caleres held its fall 2024 preview event during FFANY earlier this month. The St. Louis-based footwear company showed buyers and press the latest innovations from its roster of brands including Allen Edmonds, Dr. Scholl’s Shoes, Franco Sarto, LifeStride, Naturalizer, Rykä, Vionic, Vince, Veronica Beard, and more.

At Allen Edmonds, executives showed the men’s brand’s new luxury “Reserve” footwear line. Featuring premium leathers and materials, the elevated line is being targeted at upscale, luxury retailers. Over at Vionic, the team was showing its comfort-driven fashion items like the Uptown loafer and Walk Max sneaker.

At Dr. Scholl’s, which is set to celebrate its 100th anniversary later this year, attendees got a glimpse of some of the brand’s best-selling staples like original wooden sandal and its viral Time Off sneaker.

As for Naturalizer, the label was boasting its range of calf sizes for its boot assortment. The brand is launching a new extra wide calf size option due to the success of its wide calf boot. With this addition, Naturalizer now has four calf sizes in its boot range.

Minnetonka Celebrates Its Redesigned Thunderbird Moccasin

Minnetonka held an event in Brooklyn during market week to celebrate the redesign of its signature moccasin – the Thunderbird. Renamed the “Animikii,” which means “Thunderbird” in the Ojibwemowin language, the shoe is being recreated by Red Lake Nation Anishinaabeg designer Lucie Skjefte and shares the name of her son. The new design of the original 1955-released classic features the same look fans know and love but with new, authentic beading designed by Skjefte.

This redesign is part of Minnetonka’s ongoing journey to honor and uplift the Native American community. The company said that for every Thunderbird “Animikii” pair purchased, a product lifetime royalty will be paid to Skjefte for her original design and a donation will be made to a Native American organization of Skjefte’s choice.

“The desired feeling while wearing this design is one of eagerness and excitement,” Skjefte said in a statement. “It should evoke a sense of pride – rocking a fresh design that honors the Anishinaabe way of life, in a good way.”

It’s been an overall challenging year for the footwear industry, but shoe brands were optimistic this week during FFANY market week and Footwear Show New York Expo (FSNYE) as they showed their fall and winter ’24 collections.

“It feels like old times,” said Matt Priest, president and CEO of the Footwear Distributors and Retailers of America (FDRA), which hosts the seasonal FFANY trade show. “It almost feels like December ’19. Everyone’s here, everyone’s jammed with appointments, all the buyers are here and it’s kind of a return to normal.”

Additionally, the industry is coming off of a strong Thanksgiving week, which bodes well for the outlook for the rest of the holiday season.

“Even though there’s economic headwinds impacting our consumers, particularly at working family levels, there is optimism, particularly for the back half of ’24,” Priest said. “And this is the product that’s going to be sold then, that people are looking at right now.”

Over at the FSNYE show at the Park Lane hotel, president Phyllis Rein noted that feedback from buyers was “extremely positive and optimistic,” as worry about inflation seem to tamper down. “Retailers were delighted, to be back in-person in NYC and to see, touch and feel the new collections first-hand,” Rein said. “Inflation is still a concern however it is slowing down. Customers are still purchasing footwear, and thanks to factors like TikTok and other social media platforms brand awareness has increased tremendously.”

Here were three key themes that were on the minds of footwear brands at the trade show this week.

A desire for newness

After a period of supply chain backlogs and then subsequent inventory excesses, brands showing their wares in New York this week reported that their retail clients are eager for new and fresh styles.

“We’re finding there’s a real upbeat [feeling] around new fresh things,” said Jeremy Bank, founder and president of New Zealand-based sustainable shoe brand YY Nation. “There’s still a ways to go in terms of the market, which is still quite tough, but there’s excitement around some new things. So that’s what we’re finding with some of our line. The new materials are really capturing.”

Milwaukee-based Muk Luks, which makes slippers and cabin socks, has only begun to emphasize its footwear business in the last three years but has felt a positive reception from buyers looking for new products.

“We have found more of a willingness to look at a new brand,” said Muk Luks VP of footwear sales Jeffrey Jones. “Open-to-buys are opening up and it’s obvious from the way people are talking with us.”

Falc USA CEO Salina Ferretti agreed that many buyers are searching for newness in their assortments. Falc USA, which is the North American subsidiary of the nearly 50-year-old Italian company Falc SpA, unveiled its first permanent multibrand showroom 1370 Sixth Avenue in New York this week after seeing steady momentum over the past few years. Retailers can find fresh styles from brands like Flower Mountain, Voile Blanche, Candice Cooper, W6YZ (pronounced “Wizz”), Naturino and Falcotto.  “Many buyers have come here and bought at least two or three of our brands, which is exciting for us,” Ferretti said. “This points to the fact that consumers want something new.”

Natasha Norie Standard echoed the sentiment. Standard, the founder of Norie Shoes, noted that the buyers she’s encountered at the FSNYE show love her best-selling flat styles that fit perfectly into the ballet flat trend happening right now in women’s shoes.

Adapting to inflation

Brands also noted how the current inflationary environment has impacted the way consumers spend on apparel and footwear.

“She’s much more purposeful about where she’s going to spend her money on fashion, because she wants that money to have a different kind of experience,” said Jodie Johnson, EVP of Baretraps. “So that’s our challenge: How do we get her back engaged with needing the new outfit?”

Baretraps, produced by Footwear Unlimited, has taken an innovative marketing approach to engage the inflation-stricken consumer by showing its products in the context of a curated sample closet, illustrating how one pair of shoes might fit in with several outfits.

“We took ourselves outside of just thinking about footwear and footwear trends and said, ‘How do we really help our consumer from an apparel perspective?'” Johnson said.

Looking ahead into next year, Florsheim president Kevin Schiff said some retailers are concerned what 2024 has in store for the economy, pointing toward the presidential election and ongoing Trump trials. “But we are seeing a strong turnout this season. We have been very busy writing orders this week,” Schiff said. “Stores are doing better this year than they had originally projected. And I hope that 2024 is a truly ‘normal’ year in terms of business, as interest rates stabilize and prices come down.”

Warmer weather impact

As some retailers continue to point to the changing weather patterns for lagging sales, many cold weather-focused brands are feeling the heat.

Florsheim’s Schiff candidly noted that boots have been very slow to sell this season given the relatively mild fall the U.S. has experienced. “What is doing well, though, are our white-soled hybrid dress shoes that casualize the more formal men’s style,” Schiff noted. “The comfort bottoms are also seen in our Chelsea boots and other models.”

At Cougar, account manager Bernie Richfield said that the shifting weather patterns are the No. 1 thing affecting retailers right now. “I am encouraging buyers to bring in our boots later than they typically would,” Richfield said. “Why bring in a snow boot in September? It just isn’t cold enough outside, and once it does get cold, the shoe is considered old. So I’m suggesting to retailers to not take delivery of our more substantial winter styles until November.”

At Spyder, which specializes in premium ski product, it hasn’t seen as big of an impact from the warmer fall.

“I think the good news is we’re a little bit of a later-season brand,” said Spyder national sales manager Dave Miller. “We’ve seen some really good upticks in sales in the last few weeks. And we’re very fourth-quarter driven.”

Companies during FFANY’s August market last week remained optimistic on the rest of the year ahead. While there are still recession concerns and more economic challenges, executives said the trade show was a successful one.

Designer Ron White, for instance, said his namesake label saw its “biggest reaction ever” from buyers to his men’s and women’s collections. “The styles in my collection that received the most love were updated silhouettes mixed with elevated textures,” White told FN. “From handwoven English calfskin, unique painted and metallic embossed suede, as well as the introduction of luxurious bouclé and frayed-edge denim.”

Other trends gaining traction for spring ’24 included raffia and natural materials.

“Heel height variation was also a big trend, ranging from flat, mid and high, in order to give customers options in both comfort and style,” added Heather Esterline, senior merchandising manager at Zappos.com. “Sneakers were also a big focus, with the most notable being the court sneaker. We also saw espadrilles, flatforms and footbed sandals make their mark. All in all, this market delivered a lot of fun fashion that should draw the customer in with an emotional connection to the shoes.”

Other retailers in attendance included Belk, Nordstrom, DSW, Stitchfix, Bloomingdale’s, Ross, Rack Room, Jildor, Famous Footwear, Shoe Sensation and Macy’s, among others.

Faryl Robin Gilston, founder & CEO of Faryl Robin Footwear, said caution from retailers is expected in this unpredictable economy, but she’s never been more excited to be in this industry.

“There is course-correcting that should be taking place,” she said. Robin added that she’s seeing more offerings of extended sizes and growing importance of functionality and comfort in footwear.

Matt Priest, president and CEO of the Footwear Distributors and Retailers of America, which hosts the FFANY trade show, noted that it was a robust event. “In an uncertain economy, our consumers might be more discerning with their purchases, but they are certainly seeking fresh and exciting product. Brands and retailers know this well and are ensuring that shelves remain stocked with remarkable footwear in the coming months,” he said. “We expect an even more dynamic November market.”

The next FFANY Market Week is scheduled for Nov. 27-Dec. 1.